Golf Supply America - Golf Clubs and Supplies

ASSEMBLY TIPS
& SUGGESTIONS

Topics
Special Head Prep For Graphite Shafts	Ferrule Use & Hosel Prep
Bonding Tips	Why Shanked Ferrules?
Installation Tip	Clubfitting Terms

Special Head Preparation For Installing Any Graphite Wood or Iron Shaft

Chamfer exit point of hosel with 20 degree coning tool. If hosel is not chamfered, stress will cause graphite shaft fibers to break, rendering the shaft unsafe and unusable. The use of a chamfered (countersunk) ferrule is a MUST on all graphite shaft installations.

Ream hosel to smooth rough spots on inner surface and deburr chamfered edge. If sharp edges remain in hosel they will cut into the graphite fibers during normal use and, eventually, cause shaft failure. Clean hosel and shaft thoroughly before assembly.

Ferrule Use And Hosel Preparation

When installing any graphite shaft in a metal clubhead, the hosel must be countersunk with a 20 degree coning tool. This process will prevent the edge of the hosel from cutting into the shaft wall. If the head style permits, always use a countersunk ferrule and allow epoxy to fill all chamfered areas of, both, the head and ferrule of all installations in order to support and cushion the shaft.

Bonding Tips

Be sure to use a "High Shear Strength Shafting Epoxy" and follow the directions of the manufacturer.

The amount of epoxy required to bond club components is minimal. In fact, the area of importance is between the inner surface of the hosel and the outer surface of the shaft. The bonding strength located here is created by a thin film of adhesive applied at time of assembly. The success of this bond depends............to a great extent.........on the preparations of the components before the adhesive is mixed and applied. The mating surfaces MUST be prepared correctly.

Don't use an excessive amount of epoxy! You're just adding extra weight and increasing the chance for a rattle or fracture to develop in the future. Epoxy located within the shaft is of little value. In fact, it can cause damage to graphite shafts if used to excess. The I.D. of most graphite shafts is small and excessive amounts of adhesive will be forced up the shaft at time of assembly. This can cause a flex change and create a stress point in the shaft. A rattle can occur, as well.

FOR STEEL SHAFTS: Perform required tip trimming and abrade that portion of the shaft tip that extends into the hosel. Be sure to "dull" all of the chrome on the tip. The microscopic scratches created by sanding the shaft tip create a much larger "gripping" surface for the adhesive.

FOR GRAPHITE SHAFTS: Perform required tip trimming. Then, remove any finish from that portion of the shaft tip that extends into the hosel. Graphite shafts should NOT be sanded. Use the edge of a sharp knife to scrape the tip. If available, a belt sander....with a "Tip Prep" belt installed....can be used to remove finish from the shaft tip area. Use caution with this procedure.

The next important step is cleaning. Both the hosel I.D. and the shaft tip area must be free of all dirt and oily materials. A good solvent...such as acetone... will help with the cleaning. A cotton tipped swab dipped in the solvent works well in the hosel.

When installing ferrules, put a very small amount of epoxy on shaft tip and "start" the ferrule onto the shaft by hand. Then, use the clubhead to "seat" the ferrule in the correct location on the shaft. The epoxy serves as a lubricant so the ferrule can slide into place easily and, also, prevents it from becoming loose in the future. Do this BEFORE applying epoxy in the hosel.

After tip preparation and cleaning have been done, apply a thin coat of epoxy to both mating surfaces. Then, as the shaft is inserted into the hosel, slowly twist the shaft to insure even distribution of epoxy. Wipe off any excess epoxy with a paper towel. Set club aside and allow epoxy to cure according to manufacturers instructions.

When installing a graphite shaft extension, clean shaft butt I.D. to remove "parting" agent used during shaft manufacture. This compound will not let epoxy bond to shaft. Place club in an INVERTED position and allow epoxy to cure. This will prevent any excess epoxy from running down the shaft.

Always allow epoxy to cure at 70 degrees F or higher. Cool conditions will halt the curing process.

Why Shanked Ferrules?

The "Shanked" ferrule serves a very useful purpose. In addition to providing the "look" desired by the clubmaker, they are excellent for protecting graphite shafts.

Here's why: The void created when a proper countersink is accomplished gets filled by the "shank" of the ferrule. This unique feature assures that no sharp metal edge will be in contact with the shaft as it exits the hosel.

You must countersink any clubhead to prepare it for the installation of a graphite shaft. In this case, since the ferrule is "shanked", you are forced to go deep enough in the hosel so the shank of the ferrule will fit correctly in the top of the hosel. A "shallow" countersink will cause a poor fit between the top of the hosel and the ferrule. This is indicated by a gap between the mating parts and means that additional countersinking is required.

Be aware that most clubheads have a "minimal" countersink when receive from the manufacturer. If you plan to install a graphite shaft in any metal head, you must check to see if a proper countersink exists. Don't forget this important job. Poor installation practices can void your shaft warranty.

Installation Tip

Any wood head (composite or wooden) with a conventional whipped hosel must have the golf shaft fully inserted to the bottom of the bore. The head gains much of its strength from the shaft and the epoxy bond between them. Failure to remove any excess foam or other foreign materials from the hosel bore will prevent the shaft from "bottoming" in the head resulting in damage and no warranty.

Clubfitting Terms

LOFT ANGLE - The loft angle of a golf club determines the golf ball trajectory (movement through space). Although the chart might persuade you to choose a club with less loft so you can realize increased distance, a club with less loft is more difficult to hit.

LIE ANGLE - Lie angle is generally considered the most important fitting variable. Improper lie angle usually causes directional control problems. A lie angle that is too flat has a tendency to push balls right. Too upright a lie angle often results in a shot that's pulled left. Lie angle also impacts solidness of feel, distance, backspin, trajectory and ball roll. Lie angle correction can result in a dramatic improvement in a player's game.

SHAFT FLEX - The shaft's job is to bring the clubhead into proper position at impact. Four characteristics must be matched to the individual golfer: stiffness (shaft flexibility), flex point (where the shaft bends), weight and torque (the amount the shaft twists during a swing). A properly fit golf shaft provides normal ball trajectories, good consistency, directional control and solid feel at impact.

CLUB LENGTH - Proper club length might seem a problem in today's equipment world. Because shaft materials have greatly changed in recent years, there's no defined standard for club length. The goal is to find the longest club possible that results in consistently centered hits, accuracy, proper trajectory, solid feel and maximum distance.

GRIP SIZE - Three important benefits are realized from a properly sized grip: a comfortable feel at address, control during the swing and uninhibited wrist action as the clubhead moves into the impact zone. If the two middle fingertips of the non-dominant hand (left hand in right-handed golfers) barely touch or just miss the heel of the palm when the hand is wrapped around the grip (a normal grip at address, the grip is the correct size.

SWINGWEIGHT - The swingweight is the weight relationship of grip, shaft, and clubhead. The scale used to determine swingweights provides letter/number readings Lightweight readings are C-7, C-8, and C-9; average D-0, D-1, D-2, and D-3; and heavy D-4, D-5, and D-6. Light swingweights indicate more of the overall weight of the club at the grip end. Heavy swingweights indicate more weight toward the heel of the club.

HOSEL CONFIGURATION - The front edge of a conventional hosel lines up with the leading edge of the clubhead. The front edge of an offset hosel is slightly forward of the leading edge of the clubhead. An offset hosel usually is recommended for players who slice/fade the ball.